Get to Know Your Space: Part 1

Get to Know Your Space: Part 1

  • Posted by Jackie Russell
  • On November 18, 2017
  • Comments

Nobody knows this gym better than our head route setter, Mike Bockino.

So, we asked him to show us around!

Part One of our tour takes us to the 2nd floor training space. This space can seem intimidating, but if you know what it has to offer and how to use it, you can confidently get stronger with the best of them!

Mike chalked up and took the time to explain several training tools, including what they are called (nobody wants to sound like a newb) and why you should use them. He even threw us a bit of training beta, too!

Thanks, Mike!

WHAT WE CALL IT: Treadwall

Best uses
Warming up, endurance training

Pro tip
Adjust the speed to a point that the wall doesn’t stop and you are not climbing faster than the wall is rotating.

BONUS - Training tip
Integrate a core circuit into your rest period after doing (x) number of moves!

WHAT WE CALL IT: Spray Wall

Best uses
Warming up, ARC training (more on that coming soon!), movement-specific training, targeting weaknesses.

Pro tip
Switch up your grip! Work on holds that are hard for you. Better at crimps? Work the slopers!

BONUS - Training tip
To mimic sport climbing, plan challenging 5-6 move sequences while resting on a jug, then do another 5-6 moves.

WHAT WE CALL IT: Peg Board

AKA
Two Finger Pocket Training Board 😉

Best uses
Party tricks, power training, movement training

Pro tip
Set your pegs in advance to force specific movement patterns, including long pull-throughs and cross moves.

WHAT WE CALL IT: Campus Board

Best uses
Contact strength and power training.

Pro tip
Work both sides with the goal to pull equally. i.e. if you’re able to do a 1-4-7 (from rung 1 to 4 to 7) with your right hand first, work toward the same with your left hand first.

WHAT WE CALL IT: Moonboard

Best uses
Body tension, finger strength, contact strength, precision and power training, comparing your performance to others worldwide using the Moonboard app. 

Pro tip
Try to force yourself to grip each hold only once.  Re-gripping is inefficient and training yourself not to do it will pay huge dividends.  Play by Mike’s rules – every problem has a sit start!

BONUS - Training tip
Be smart with your rest intervals! It is easy to use the Moonboard to cater to any type of climbing – bouldering or sport climbing!

FINAL TIP!

While training may not be as fun as just hopping on the climbing wall, there are serious benefits like injury prevention, big gains in your performance and specifically the ability to train your weakness (hate sloper problems as much as we do?). And don’t forget, you can always get more info on any of these from our front desk and coaching staff. Please ask!